Why clothing sizes vary – and why European sizing feels smaller

Let’s be honest: we’ve all been there. In one brand, a size M fits perfectly. In another, you’re squeezing into a size L. The reason? There’s no global standard for clothing sizes. Each brand creates its own sizing system.

Note: The following explanations are about how pattern grading and sizing systems differ across regions. Designers use different base measurements, which affects the final size numbers, even when the bodies themselves are equally normal and diverse. This isn't about body shaming by any means.

Why sizes differ between brands

• Target audience: Brands design for their typical customer: athletic, curvy, tall, petite, etc. Let's just think about age: the body and posture changes a lot with age, it's a natural process. So if a brand has a teenage audience, the clothing will look very different from a brand that caters to 40+ customers.
• Average body shapes: Sizes also differ by region, because body shapes differ by region. And cultural ideals around beauty play a role too. Southern European styles often lean toward body-hugging cuts, while North American brands tend to prioritize comfort and ease. 
• Design philosophy: Some brands prefer a slim fit, others a relaxed fit. Same “size M,” totally different garment.
• Pattern drafting methods: Drafting systems (e.g., Müller & Sohn, Aldrich, US industry blocks) produce different shapes even with the same measurements.

All of this helps brands to be very consistent across their own range of clothes. But it means that based on target audience, region & body shape and other factors a size "L" will be very different from brand to brand.

EU vs US sizing – why European sizes run small for US customers

EU sizes generally run smaller than US sizes. This often leads to EU sizes not fitting in the US — and vice versa. The main reason is the difference in body shapes.

Weight & BMI

In the US, the share of people with overweight is significantly higher than in many European countries (Global Obesity Observatory). According to a new study based on 3D body measurements, 39.8% of US women are obese (in line with official US data), compared to 15.8% in Germany. In France, only 10% of women are obese. In Italy, 11% of women are obese.

Body shapes

• Higher average weight and waist circumference in US women lead to a more apple‑shaped or full‑hourglass distribution on average. German women tend to have straighter waists and proportionally wider hips, which aligns more with rectangle or pear‑leaning shapes. (Based on body measurements).
• German women are also taller and have longer torsos compared to women in the US.
• The average US cup size for women is D, while in Germany the average cup size is B-C.

Conclusion

On average, Americans wear noticeably larger sizes than people in Europe. Weight, body proportions and height are significantly different in Europe vs. the US. US brands cater to the US averages with larger size charts and looser fits. In Europe, patterns are based on the smaller local body proportions and tend to be drafted closer to the body.

Market size & Inclusivity

The US has 4x the population of Germany and a much larger share of women wear plus sizes.

In the US, extended sizes aren’t a niche—they’re a major part of the mainstream market. The US accounts for 31% of the global Plus Size Market. That creates a big, profitable market for brands to offer extended sizing.

Germany on the other hand (the largest Euopean country) accounts for only 7% of the market. In Germany, very large sizes represent a niche. Most brands focus on the mainstream, because that's where the money is. That's why there are some brands for extended sizing, but it is not as common as in the US.

Different bodies, different fits – a global snapshot

Body shapes and available cuts vary significantly by region:

• In Scandinavia and the Netherlands, people tend to be taller on average — clothing is often drafted with longer proportions.
• In Latin America, the focus is more often on curvier cuts, especially around the hips.
• In many Asian countries, brands cater to more petite body shapes, with shorter inseams and sleeve lengths.

Why we use professional data at naeyen

In many places, specialized companies like the Hohenstein Institute have been collecting body measurements for decades. Hohenstein, for example, has measured Germans of all ages for over 70 years. These measurements go beyond just height and weight; they also take into account posture and body shape. The goal? Creating accurate sizing charts that help brands design clothing that truly fits.

At naeyen, like other professional pattern providers, we base our patterns on this kind of data. And what we’ve seen is clear: height, proportions, even posture can vary drastically depending on the country. For example, the average body measurements for women in the US are quite different from those in Germany or Italy.

Yes, sizes vary by brand

All of this is a reminder of how wonderfully diverse bodies are—and why it’s so important to go by measurement charts rather than relying on size labels when sewing.

Because in the end, your body is one of a kind—your clothing should be too.