Sustainable Sewing: Overhang Production/ Deadstock Fabric

Deadstock fabric refers to excess or unused fabric that was originally intended for production but never used. Fabric mills and clothing companies are left with vast amounts of fabric scraps that they no longer use. Deadstock fabric is often discarded or incinerated.

There are many reasons why overproduction occurs: Fabric factories offer large discounts the more fabric is ordered (volume discounts). Or they only produce above a certain quantity. Thus, it can make economic sense for companies to order more fabric than they need. Deadstock fabric can also be canceled orders (e.g., collection/design changes), test production, or production errors. A production error can be even a minimal color deviation from the planned shade in a solid-colored fabric.

Environmentally conscious companies try to avoid surpluses and, where possible, reuse surplus production rather than burning it.

What makes deadstock fabrics special?

Especially with luxury and upscale brands, you can find special materials that are hard to find in regular fabric stores. These include cashmere fabrics for coats, wool jersey, or the finest silk fabrics for blouses and dresses. You can also find special patterns and prints : if you've always wanted to have an expensive designer dress in your closet, you'll find it at Deadstock Fabric.

It's important to note that the fabrics are not reproduced . Once sold, they're sold and cannot be reordered. Therefore, the required fabric should be carefully calculated before purchasing.

Furthermore, there may be quantity restrictions when purchasing online. For example, some vendors only sell deadstock fabrics in quantities of several meters or whole rolls. In fabric stores, however, deadstock fabrics can be purchased in precut pieces.

What makes deadstock fabrics sustainable?

• Resource conservation : The use of deadstock fabrics minimizes the need for newly produced materials and thus reduces the ecological footprint of the textile industry.
• Reduction of textile waste : By reusing existing fabrics, textile waste that would otherwise end up in landfills is reduced.
• Seal : Even deadstock fabrics may contain GOTS or OekoTex certified fabrics. Luxury brands now often offer RWS wool and recycled wool.
• Rethinking : Encourages companies to think about the cycle of their materials instead of simply disposing of them.

What criticisms are there of Deadstock Fabric?

• Wrong incentive : industry is not obliged or encouraged to avoid overproduction.
• Sustainability : Deadstock fabrics aren't automatically sustainably produced, and if they contain polyester, they're not biodegradable either. It's therefore important to pay attention to the material and, if possible, the label.
• Lack of transparency : The origin and quality of deadstock fabrics can be difficult to verify. Often no information is available about the production conditions of the substances.
• Potential greenwashing effects : Brands can use deadstock to convey a sustainable image without actually implementing sustainable practices.

Conclusion

Deadstock fabrics can be a sustainable alternative to newly produced fabrics, as they reduce textile waste and conserve resources. However, it's important to look for biodegradable materials and, if possible, purchase certified fabrics (GOTS, etc.).